Tuesday, April 1, 2008


Well my friends i finally will admit it, i'm not invincible. Too much climbing and not enough rest hasn't exactly equated to Sharma esque strength and Graham like technique. In fact its done the worst possible thing, injured me, causing me to take time off of climbing. The joint in my right middle finger is severely swollen and the tendinitis is so bad that i can barely bend the finger into a closed grip position without grimacing after a day of climbing in the gym. So my plan is to avoid the gym at all costs and only climb outside on weekends with the occasional weekday session at the local crag. I'm addicted what can i say. Not climbing is not an option, but i do realize that im gonna need to baby this injury in order to not do permanent damage. Maybe Kosovo and not focusing on climbing will be good in the long run. Since im not climbing that much these days i've decided to dedicate this entry to all the crazy antics climbers do when they need to climb and haven't climbed in a few days. You all know what i mean. Campusing stairs and trees. Making up "boulder" problems on trees, buildings, inside your apartment, etc. I once even created a dyno circuit in my place in college that included double handed backwards snatches, sideways dynos from deck to tree branches and even a tree hug move into a full body aerial to a hanging rope. Crazy shit i tell ya, just to get a fix. Here's a quick video of me campusing a rest area pavillion on a long road trip to Yosemite from Washington DC a few years back. Look at that pathetic mantel at the end. Gray is just chuckling away at my futile attempts but i swear it was the sandals and when i ditched them i was able to heel out just right to crank the slopey move.

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